Tirana to Shkoder: Hiking Albania’s Accursed Mountains (Review)

Thinking about experiencing the Tirana-Komani Lake-Valbona-Theth-Shkoder adventure? This area of Albania, sometimes called the Accursed Mountains, really gives you a view that’s tough to beat. What I want to do is give you an in-depth look into what makes this trek awesome, hopefully giving you some help when you’re putting together your own adventure. It’s almost got that raw feel; you will not find crowds, which makes it more rewarding if you value isolation and beautiful places.

The Allure of the Albanian Alps

The Albanian Alps are there, like some big landmark for those seeking the great outdoors. That part of the world holds some interesting things: Komani Lake, that looks just like something straight out of a postcard, and Valbona and Theth that really just grab you with the villages. It’s the sort of place, in some respects, where old ways of life meet views that will just knock you off your feet. What’s cool is getting a chance to really check out Albanian culture, getting beyond Tirana.

Things I really loved:

The way the mountains are all jagged, like you see on TV
Seeing how people in these villages get by. It almost makes you think.
The paths going over the mountains.

Tirana: Beginning the Albanian Adventure

The trip began in Tirana. Actually, it has got that European city feel but mixed up with a touch of Balkan charm. First up, I just walked about checking out spots like Skanderbeg Square that tells tales about times way back and the Et’hem Bey Mosque that showed just how detailed the artwork used to get. Thinking of the city for anything more than a launchpad for seeing more raw things? Give it a day; it is very alive now and you see folks hurrying all over.

What I liked most about Tirana?

Mix of fancy coffees and local food places on the streets.
Walking in Grand Park, almost like forgetting there’s a whole city there.
There are building murals all over, not what I expected at all.

Komani Lake: A Boat Trip like No Other

Next comes Komani Lake. How to get there? You will be driven from Tirana, usually pretty early, up to a place near the water. What you need to do next is jump on one of those ferries. This boat bit takes you past some wild, twisting scenery for a good few hours. Mountains that look very, very steep meet calm waters – so something will definitely catch your eye. I mean this ride is like a sneaky attraction nobody seems to shout about.

Tips about the boat thing:

Go get a seat at the top deck that looks a lot better to watch all of it from.
Bring things you would want on hand like snacks; sometimes that snack shop thing is closed.
Start talking to everyone; tourists will tell of routes unknown to all guide books.

Valbona Valley: Trekking in the Heart of the Alps

Arriving at Valbona is kind of arriving at quiet, which you do not find in other travel spots. This is a jumping point for loads of walking paths and mountain experiences; you have accommodation like hotels, and hostels that keep things rustic. That path over into Theth is not something that amateurs can do, yet is tackled often as that ultimate mountain thing. But look at other less tough options that also will not fail you.

Things people told me were great:

Stay a day or two; lots of close paths mean this makes things nicer if seeing things more calmly is how you do things.
Really talk at length with locals; folks around there, to be honest, have tales of that part of Albania.
Look at the place to bed down early, you really can see all those twinkling far off solar systems.

Theth: A Village Locked in Time

Theth gives those Valbona vibes that it almost feels locked out of modern times. This place shows an isolated Albania that’s difficult to picture if you’ve only just come to Albania’s bigger places. Spots to find around there are that Lock-in Tower, with some grim events related to that piece of the world, along with the church out in the clear that will be very different compared to the others found back where you came from.

My advice?

The Blue Eye attraction. Although you read things about all that now, going is not quite what you get looking at something off the web.
Remember water shoes; that are helpful, actually, as water running can catch folks off-guard
Find where the Grunas waterfall can be found because nothing does justice telling someone that it almost shoots.

Shkoder: Reflecting on the Adventure

Shkoder gives you a place that’s ideal, to be honest, for resting up that weary body or head. Rozafa Fortress shows something from periods of rule that ran long since. Also Lake Shkoder means seeing nature can take another frame, giving folks that quiet moment after going to places like Valbona; you get cafes, more or less, that will serve strong espressos or beers.

Things which made Shkoder worthwhile?

Walk along Mesi Bridge as that thing from ancient building which is cool
Lake Shkoder as those scenes over bodies of running water are hard to not think is magical.
Restaurants close in there, actually very handy for a lot more grub for the price compared somewhere like main Europe.